Indianapolis Fishers Day Spa and Salon

"Drying Times"

November 12, 2006

Drying times

Proper skin care can ensure smooth sailing through the cold, rough days ahead

By Kelly Kendall

If your lips have been extra chapped lately and your hands have been feeling tight, as if in too-small gloves, you're not alone: It's Dry Skin Fest.

"This is definitely the season for it," says Dr. Ryan Brashears, an Indianapolis dermatologist. "When the heat goes on, the skin's moisture goes out." Consider these three steps for smoother skin, and check out our experts' top moisturizer picks; most are as close as your nearest drugstore.

STEPS TO SMOOTHER SKIN

1. Decide your skin type.

Drier skin can benefit from just about any decent moisturizer, which you'll want to apply both morning and night. If you have oilier skin, you'll want to watch for lightweight products that won't clog your pores -- if you need a moisturizer at all.

It comes down to comfort more than anything, says Barb Brillhart, a former nurse who now owns Villaggio Day Spa in Fishers. If your face feels tight after you wash it, it's probably dry. If it feels the same as before you stepped into the shower, you might skip moisturizer in favor of a basic sunscreen, she says.

Gina Peach, an aesthetician at Tyler Mason Salon and Spa, says oilier types should look for products offering "hydration" (water) instead of "moisture" (oil).

All this is usually more important for facial moisturizers, since pretty much anyone can benefit from the same body lotions. But if you're breaking out on your shoulders or chest, switch to a product aimed at oilier skin.

2. Remember the point.

Namely: Moisturizing. Vanilla sugar body cream and lemon meringue lotion may smell delicious, and they're fine if what you really want is a yummy scent. But they may not be doing much to soothe your skin.

"Typically, if it smells good and it's in a pump bottle, it's not as good for your skin," says Indianapolis dermatologist Ryan Brashears. Pumps aren't necessarily bad; it's just that they usually contain lighter, water-based lotions that aren't as intense as many creams on the market. And scented "moisturizers" often contain irritants and alcohol, which can actually dry out your skin.

Things can also get confusing when you sift through the claims made by various moisturizers: Anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, collagen-boosting, skin-firming. If you think those products could help, too, go for it. But keep in mind that a good facial moisturizer just needs sunscreen (SPF 15-30, depending on whom you ask) and one or two key ingredients, such as glycerin, petrolatum, dimethicone, amlactin or urea.

3. Check out the cheap stuff.

Dermatologists agree that, while certain high-end products have fans who swear by them, you don't have to spend a lot for a good moisturizer. Dr. Diane Berson, assistant professor of dermatology at Cornell University's medical school, tells patients that a lot of drugstore brands use technology similar to what's found in expensive brands. For highly sensitive or acne-prone skin, she might prescribe something, but otherwise, over the counter is fine.

Dr. Brashears steers his patients toward plain old out-of-the-jar Vaseline.

"It can be goopy, but it works really well," he says.

Another of his favorites, Neutrogena Norwegian Hand Formula Cream, comes in at under $4 at many drugstores.

Whatever you choose should go on morning and night, ideally right after a shower, when your skin's still plumped with water.

THE PRODUCTS

FACE

For most skin: Cetaphil Daily Facial Moisturizer SPF 15, $11.79 (4 ounces). This perennial dermatologist favorite is good for just about anyone: It's light enough for oily skin, effective for dry skin and contains no irritating ingredients.

For oily skin: Neutrogena Oil-Free Moisture SPF 15, $10.69 (4 ounces). Villaggio Day Spa owner Barb Brillhart considers Neutrogena one of the strongest drugstore brands, especially this nongreasy line.

For dry skin: Cosmedicine Primary Care Multi-Tasking Moisturizer SPF 20, $48 (1.35 ounces) at Sephora. Self-dubbed "cosmetics cop" Paula Begoun, author of books including "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me," likes this one.

For problem skin: Kinerase Cream, $117 (2.8 ounces) at Villaggio Day Spa, Sephora and others. Expensive, but wonderful for smoothing out skin tone and blotchiness (we tried it). A cheaper alternative for improving skin texture: Biore Pore Minimizing Lightweight Moisturizer SPF 15, $12.99 (1.7 ounces).

BODY

Strong: Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Lotion, $6.99 (8 ounces). If your skin's not that scaly, you may prefer a lotion like this, which goes on more easily than a cream. Dr. Brashears and Dr. Farris both singled out the Aveeno line as especially effective.

Stronger: Jergens Shea Butter Cream, $7.49 (7.5 ounces). This rich cream has many of the basics that our experts recommended. Glycerin? Check. Dimethicone? Check. Shea butter? Of course.

Strongest: Neutrogena Norwegian Formula Hand Cream, $3.99 (2 ounces), and Aquaphor Healing Ointment, $5.99 (1.75 ounces). Dr. Brashears likes both of these for problem spots -- elbows, knees, feet, wherever skin needs some serious TLC. And, of course, there's always Vaseline.

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